Friday, February 12, 2010

Wildlife

Minneriya National Park, Sri Lanka

On the way to my next destination, I once again had to transfer in Dambulla. While waiting for the connecting bus, suddenly a familiar face showed up in the crowd. It was the man with the warm smile who had kept me company on the bus to Sigiriya two days earlier. We were both surprised and happy to see each other again. We only spoke briefly since he also had to catch another bus. While it was still waiting to leave the station, he kept signaling to me through the window to make sure I get on the right bus. It was like having a friend in the middle of the crowd!

Upon arrival in Polonnaruwa, I had not even stepped down the bus yet when at least two tuk-tuk drivers were approaching me. Because of the commission-based system practiced by many guest houses, drivers are too keen to welcome foreign travelers. My guest house had offered a free pick-up service which I thankfully accepted. I explained to the men that I did not require their service. Unfortunately, when they realize that there is no money to make the friendliness fades quickly.

At the guest house, I met the two French brothers again whom I had met in Sigiriya. They were about to leave for a safari and invited me to join. My original intention to spend the afternoon in an internet cafe sounded far less exciting! So I dropped my bags in the basic but clean room, took a quick shower and hopped on the jeep.

The expected 30-minute drive turned into a one-hour drive, bringing me back half the way to my starting point of the day. At the gate, we had to pay 2,400 Rs each (approx. 15 Euro, which is a lot of money here!) for entry to the park. Also, we were forced to take along a volunteer guide. We were repeatedly told that we could tip him if we were satisfied.


The jeep followed a well laid-out path while we watched out for elephants, crocodiles, and leopards. Every time the guide spotted an animal, he knocked on the car frame to stop the driver. We saw a waran (massive lizard), a mongoose, deer, monkeys, and different birds. The landscape around a big water reserve was amazing, but the wildlife was not mind-blowing.


Because it was really unplanned, I enjoyed the adventure anyways. I gifted our guide with lots of jokes and witty questions. Not even the high price made me regret my spontaneity: on top of the entrance fee, we had to pay 5,000 Rs for the jeep and driver for a four-hour trip, which is definitely too much. My companions were more disappointed than me. I had been on a jungle track in India and on a whale/dolphin excursion on the Azores before, both without success. An afternoon safari on a well-worn path around a national park, just after rainy season is not advisable. Apparently, the best season to visit Minneriya National Park is in August after the long dry period.


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