Sunday, February 14, 2010

Bruised

Trincomalee, East Coast of Sri Lanka

My trip further north started much more pleasurable than I had imagined. I did not have to wait even one minute for the express bus to arrive. This was the first bus where passengers did not have to stand or squeeze, and the first bus where no one tried to engage me in a conversation. I stretched in my seat and looked outside while the country presented itself in its brightest colors.

Whereas I had absolutely enjoyed being in company for the past days, I was just as happy to continue my journey alone. I had come to appreciate my increased awareness when traveling by myself. I observed many more details and was more open to connect to others along the way. The best is of course is to have a good mix of both.


I was on my way to Trinco, a town at the north east coast of Sri Lanka. Battled from the recent civil war and torn by the tsunami five years ago, the region has a special atmosphere. The beaches nearby were supposed to be a natural paradise less frequented by tourists. Only individual travelers would find their way here.

Military checkpoint at Uppuveli Beach
"No guns" signs at every gate
Beach front, UppuveliHouse torn by tsunami in 2004

On the three-hour journey, the houses became simpler and the roads bumpier. Every few hundred meters I could see military posts with fully armed soldiers. I saw at least three scenes of soldiers visiting local families at their houses. The intensity of the situation was underlined by the sentimental songs played on the bus which gave me the feeling I am in the middle of a movie. The road got worse and at times the bus had to creep. The big wholes in the street were like wounds of a bruised country. As we approached the city, I could see many buildings with UN flags and projects supported by the European Union.

UN residence right at Uppuveli Beach
Bruises
Lots of space at the coast
Stranded ship at Uppuveli Beach

In Trinco, people spoke far less English than elsewhere in the country. The sun was burning. For the first time, the bus conductor did not signal me to get off at the right point. We had passed the turn to the guest houses and I had to walk back about 1km in the burning midday heat. I arrived at the guest house completely drenched. My room was very basic with a stunning view! The water was only 50m away. Sitting on the terrace, the only thing between me and the never-ending ocean was a barbed wire fence. Occasionally soldiers were patrolling the wide sand beach.

At the bus stand!

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