On the Road

Nora is currently exploring Sri Lanka with her best friend. Traveling together gives the experience a whole new angle. Their many amazing stories have yet to be written, the beautiful pictures are waiting to be unleashed. Soon their laughter will fill these pages. Just bear* with me a little longer...

* thanks for the correction!

Welcome

After treating my friend to some tea and a crocodile bun (my favorite!) at the only teashop within the airport boundaries, we decide to spend the first night at a beach nearby. We enjoy the tuk-tuk ride to Negombo and settle in a beautiful old Dutch mansion turned into a guest house only half an hour later. From our large balcony, we watch the sun set. Back to the west coast after six weeks, this is my first sun set at the beach.

We walk down the street in search for dinner and pass a traditional wedding ceremony. Curiously, we stop to take pictures. A sudden 5m-high firework makes me run when it starts raining. My first rain in Sri Lanka! Stuck under a rooftop, we find ourselves amongst the wedding guests in their fancy saris and hip blazers.


A restaurant popular with locals is just across the street, but we would be soaked to the skin. So we wait and have a very late dinner. As introduction to Sri Lankan cuisine, we order rice and curry, of course. My labelling of "not-so-spicy" lets my friend choke. And before I can warn her that my favorite coconut sambol is not sweet, but just as spicy, she loads a big spoon into her mouth. The papadam does the trick to neutralize the chili.


Welcome to Sri Lanka!

Principles - II

After seven hours I finally reach the airport. My friend is already there. I am kind of upset that I did not make it in time for her arrival. I asked her to wait inside for me to avoid the burning heat and people all over her offering transport. When I reach I notice I have to get an entry pass to get inside the arrivals hall. I consider this a security measure, run to the counter and request a pass. "130 Rs." "Excuse me?" "130 Rs." I explain that my friend is waiting inside and I just want to pick her up. A ping-pong of arguments starts. I am not only upset. I am late, hungry, tired, need to urgently use a bathroom, and I disagree. My whole bus journey from Tangalle to Colombo cost 177 Rs. Why would I pay 130 Rs. to walk 200 meters?! I am sent to the security. I should not do this on an empty stomach. It fuels even more of an argument. 130 Rs. can buy me a whole meal. I ask for the reason, request the manager, battle my ground, remind them that this is a lot of money in Sri Lanka. I will not give in on this. In the meantime, I text my friend for 7 Rs. and she comes walking out seconds later. I still find this ridiculous. When they remind me that Sri Lanka is a poor country, I nail them down: "Exactly!" and walk away. After some steps I stop to welcome and hug my friend. I apologize. She agrees with me.

Strangers

Half way through our journey, the bus driver slows his speed, while the conductor jumps off and runs towards a Buddha statue, bows and donates some coins while flying by. Next thing he grabs two small paper bags and jumps on the back of the bus. About ten seconds have passed and the bus has kept rolling. I smile at one of those typical Sri Lankan moments. But what is in the bags? I look for the conductor who is making his way towards the front of the bus. Still wearing my amazement, he catches my eyes and offers me the contents of his paper bag. I first deny politely, then curiously ask what it is. He signals to open my hands: peanuts! I have to stop him from giving me too much.

Three hours later we reach Colombo. I ask the conductor for the direction to find the airport bus. Colombo is an absolute nightmare when it comes to finding the right bus. That much I already know. He points down the road, gives me a smile and shakes my hand while I jump off the bus. I feel a small piece of paper in my hand which I don't open until much later. I already know what's coming. I shake my head in disbelief and concentrate on finding the bus.

In the afternoon heat, Colombo is full of noise, dust and too many men! When I am about to get annoyed, a young man turns around and asks if he can help. He walks me all the way to another bus stop in the opposite direction of where he was going. I have a hard time to keep up with his speed and am suspicious about his intentions, but at least he asks no questions. He stops the airport bus and I cannot thank him enough to be so kind without a hidden agenda. Thank you again stranger!

Principles

A seven-hour bus ride from Tangalle on the south coast to the International Airport about one hour north of Colombo is ahead of me. I am on my way to pick up my best friend who has spontaneously decided to join me on this beautiful island for three weeks. We have known each other for more than ten years and share a passion for travelling, bright colors, and ice cream. Our friendship has developed in all corners of the world. She is one of the most open-minded and most flexible women I know.

I choose a seat on the left side of the bus to get the best view of the coastline. My big backpack remains in Tangalle; I am planning to return in three days and only carry the most necessary things (excluding my laptop). Even the big camera fits - I am so proud of myself and I know JFR would be proud too!

Just after the bus starts to move, a young Sri Lankan dashes from the last row to the free seat next to me. I raise my eyebrow and look at him. Before he can say anything, I interrupt: "I don't want you to ask me any questions. Otherwise go back to your seat." This might seem a little harsh, but was a reaction to the very obvious intention to fire off the usual checklist of questions. And I was daring a long bus ride where I constantly have to dance around very uncomfortable questions.

Of course he can still not hold back and I remind him once in a while that he is still asking too many questions. He is on his way to a beach party in Hikkaduwa. That kind of paints the picture of the conversation I was not really keen on. When a woman with a toddler on her shoulder enters the overloaded bus, I whisper to him that I think he should get up. He responds that things are different in Sri Lanka. Now a little louder, I insist with somewhat more pressure, making clear that otherwise I would give my seat.

Before I could move, he jumps up and offers his seat to the mother. I smile at her relieved face. High five, I think. As an acknowledgment to my young companion, I smile at him. In turn he does not move anywhere, but stands right there in hope of the mother getting off the bus at some point during our trip. To my relief she does not and I happily hold the little girl's legs on my lap. Before he gets off the bus, he makes sure to wish me well and dedicates a large smile to me.

It strikes me how even harsh words do not (seemingly) offend. In Europe this could have potentially ended in a heated debate. In Sri Lanka it is crowned with a genuine smile. In my heart I feel this is so much wiser.

Paradise

Tangalle, South Coast, Sri Lanka:

Finally - I am at my dream destination. A busy bus station. A small market. A tuk-tuk ride not far to the beach. The postcard images are true. Another perfect beach. A paradise, not only for kite surfers.


And this time: walking sea shells!


More to come...

Rock View

Rock View, Arugam Bay, Sri Lanka: A Recommendation

As NGO workers block the Beach Hut every weekend, after one night I moved to another place down the beach. For 4 Euros a day, I rented a cabana on stilts with an even more stunning view to both sides of the beach.


The place is right near a rock pointing out of the water, giving some scenic views for sunrise. The well-maintained bathroom was outside, down the stairs. The room is big with a table and two arm chairs, but no shelves. The friendly staff did not interfere much in the days coming and going.


The only drawback to the room was the frequent visit of crows as the windows were kept wide open. Besides cookies, they loved to steal soap and poked their "nose" into anything that seemed interesting. But after few days, you even learn how to live with that.


Rock View also offers down-to-earth cabanas where you can close the windows, some with attached bathroom. The young man taking care of the garden, will happily do your laundry, sell coconut oil, and give massages to earn a little more income.

Mindprints

In Arugam Bay...

...Deep conversations with locals about tsunami, business, and education
...Inspiring discussions with fellow travelers about life, love, and spirituality
...Home-made dark chocolate ice cream!
...Shooting star at the beach, locals love to take pictures with me
...Superb value accommodation so close to the sea your toes touch the waves in your sleep
...Lots of interaction with locals preparing for the upcoming tourist season
...Activation of my senses for business and non-profit

Wind & Waves

Arugam Bay, East Coast, Sri Lanka

A typical day...

6am:
Wake up before sunrise
Stretching at the beach
Few fishermen, friendly beach dogs, high waves
Greeting the new day with a walk at the beach


8am:
A dip in the sea - the waves win the game
Refreshing cold shower in the garden

9am:
Breakfast at the tea shop across the street: roti, pineapple and tea
The owner needs help with creating a new menu for the tourist season

10am:
Walking down the dusty road to the internet cafe

11:30am:
Mood killed by the heat
Milk tea to activate the smile muscles


12:30pm:
Rice and curry at a small street restaurant
A motorbike stops, loaded with colorful fabrics
Negotiation for a beautiful piece of olive green cotton

2pm:
Visit to the tailor to sew my new fabric
Stop for some real chocolate ice cream

3pm:
Rest in the fresh sea breeze
Wake up to the sound of waves


4pm:
Time for a photo tour along the beach
Observing the surfers' delight

6pm:
Watching the fishermen take off to sea
Cherishing the last rays of sunshine


7pm:
Beach barbecue with fresh fish and salad
Conversations around wooden tables and flames in the sand

10pm:
A day of sun and sea takes its toll
Dreams of the wind and the waves

Cabana

Beach Hut, Arugam Bay, Sri Lanka: A Recommendation

The "Beach Hut" is a highly recommended place to stay in Arugam Bay and there are reasons for that: It offers affordable good-value accommodation with cabanas spread around a sand garden filled with heaps of natural decoration. The cabana right by the sea is roughly 20m from the water and during off-season at a bargain price (1,000 Rs - the cabanas without attached bathroom cost half the price).


The interior of the cabana is so inspiring, you risk to spend more time inside. When taking a shower, you can watch the waves of the ocean. Outside, there is space to put a hammock and for those traveling light, different sitting areas are provided.

Shower head nestled in tree trunk

A traveler's homeView from my hammock

In the nearby restaurant, good food is served at hefty prices. Breakfast lovers can relish over banana porridge and fruit salad with curd and honey. You end up spending 2-3 times the money for food, but alternatives are just across the street. After dark, the place attracts both locals and travelers, and at times the owners invite to a beach barbeque under the moonshine.

Surfer's Delight

Arugam Bay on the east coast of Sri Lanka is home to some of the best waves during season, drawing in surfers from around the world. My visit during off-season time rewarded me with a very affordable room (600 Rs / 4 Euros per night) with spectacular sea views, lots of time for interaction with locals, and empty beaches to walk, swim, and rest.

The forthcoming change is evident at every corner. Restaurants prepare their menus, guest houses fix their beach cabanas, the streets get fixed, young entrepreneurs open new surf shops, and everyone is keen to take on advice how to improve their businesses. Unlike other places, interaction with locals is frequent and pleasant.

"Green Room" - great street restaurant

The majority of the community is Muslim and their daily prayers melt with the sound of waves crashing onto the long stretches of beach. The little town is a bit tough to reach; the roads are bumpy and the buses run infrequently. But there is loads to do in the area: temples, crocodiles, elephants, miles of beaches and many surf points. But even without any of that, the days go by fast at this magic place.

Hilltop View

Hilltop View Guesthouse, Ella, Sri Lanka: A Recommendation

One of the best places to stay in Sri Lanka, this guest house offers comfortable and clean rooms, delicious home-cooked food and stunning views from their large terrace: Adam's Peak to the left and Ella Rock to the right. Even better is the all-round view from their rooftop which is only used for drying laundry. On very clear days, apparently you can see as far as the light house towers at the south east coast. The family running the guest house and the staff serving meals are super-nice and helpful. They give suggestions on popular walks without being forceful. The days pass by quickly drinking tea, eating rice and curry, and looking onto the mountains. Try their delicious vegetable soup! The rooms on the lower level have no view, but are less expensive.

View from the rooftop

View from the terrace

Terrace

Lucky

Guest house

1-2-Colombo

After 28 days in Sri Lanka I decided to prolong my stay. Too many things left undone, too many places yet to be discovered, and too much connection to this perl in the Indian Ocean. Whereas this all made perfect sense, it wasn't an easy decision to make, given the fact that I was expected to be in India and I knew I would disappoint more than one very close friend.

Once I had made up my mind, I started the bus journey from Ella at 4am. For the first time I was freezing! Most passengers wore woolen hats and jackets. I was wrapped in two scarfs and a blanket and scolded myself for not wearing socks. Temperatures were somewhere around 14 degrees Celsius, but to me it felt like I am crossing Antarctica in a T-shirt.

As soon as the sun was up and we had left the hills, it became very hot. I was drenched in sweat when the bus arrived in Colombo by noon. The Department of Immigration is only few minutes by bus from the main bus stop. Inside the building, one of the friendly security guards showed me the way.

The visa extension application process is fairly simple, but the staff is not very helpful to explain which steps to follow. Some foreigners in the waiting area offered their guidance:

1) Pick application form from the far left counter (don't expect an explanation);
2) Fill in form and glue passport picture (use finger to dip in the plastic bowl with glue);
3) Return form and passport to the far left counter (don't expect a word or a smile);
4) Wait for few minutes (fix your eyes on the clerk who will wave with your form);
5) Collect signed-off form and visit department coordinator (who thinks he is the king);
6) With double signed-off form proceed to payment counter (fees vary based on nationality);
7) With triple signed-off form go to pick-up counter (which also serves as drop-off counter);
8) Wait patiently for 30 mins (if you are lucky, waiting time can extend to 2 hrs);
9) Keep your eyes focussed on the clerk who will call out your number;
10) Collect your passport, sign the form one last time and leave this depressing place.

My plan was to return to Ella the same day and I could well have reached for dinner time had I not felt the desire to explore Colombo at least a tiny bit. So I walked through the capital in the afternoon heat. Not a good idea, especially if you are dressed in clothes suitable for the hills and you forgot that the coastal area is much much hotter!

Exhausted from my 2-hour walk, I concluded that Colombo is worth another visit. It's absolutely not as crazy as I had imagined and there are some beautiful historic buildings giving the city some flair. The seven-hour bus ride back to Ella seemed like a piece of cake and I happily arrived back in my guest house by midnight.